Day 64

June 3rd

	My final morning in Chugoku was solemn, with layers of fog tenting the landscape.  It’s fitting that my time here ends in a cloud of fog, as the thick precipitation gravitates to the levity around this region.  This place was forever changed by war.  Everything from the way they do business to how they reflect on their past is built upon a more chaotic time.

The weight of war couldn’t be felt heavier than this region. Fortunately, it did not let the region go to waste. The locals simply adjusted, adapted, and overcame their adversity.  It’s a good thing that this region is still functioning, as the Tottori Sand Dunes are a real marvel. I could have spent the entire week there, collecting specs of sand in my hair.  

However, a new week has begun and that means a new, mintly sealed envelope from you is about to be opened.

Ayden, 

	I hope you found the beauty in Chugoku. It’s one of the least traveled regions of the country, meaning that few tourists really get to see the hidden gems. For example, I’m sure that you had plenty of fun on the sand dunes.  With that week out of the way, it’s time for you to make a drastic leap. Of course, I’m talking about hopping to the island of Shikoku.

Like Chugoku, Shikoku is a rarely visited region by foreigners, which is a shame. The rural aspects seem to turn off visitors, but if you look closely, there’s plenty of treasures to uncover.  For this week, I’ve gifted you with a white hachimaki.  For some people, white is the color of surrender. For me, it represents a fresh start. In a way, going to Shikoku will be fresh to you. For the first time since you arrived in Hokkaido, you will be leaving the main island of Honshu.  

It also means that you’re one step closer to being here in Okinawa ;)

-Setsuko

Itinerary

• Visit the Naruto Whirlpools 

• Takamatsu

• Kochi

• Dogo Onsen

• Kagawa

• Yoshino River

• Shikoku Pilgrimage

Unlike the annoying shades of pink or neon, this headband will actually match my normal travel attire (not that anyone’s judging me on my fashion around here). I eagerly wrapped the band around my head and began plotting my coordinates for crossing the islands.  From Hiroshima, it looks like my route will be about 5 hours.  Like Chugoku, it appears that many of my routes in Shikoku will be lengthy.

By late morning, I set course for Tokushima and began weaving my way around the coastal roads. The hours on the pavement seem to slowly drip by, as I gradually climb to the east, eventually dropping straight south.  Days like this are when I really wish my morning coffee wouldn’t wear off so quickly.

Nothing distinct stood out with this route. It was the same old travel day (with the occasional bathroom breaks. Thanks, morning coffee).  I stand corrected. It was a normal travel day, until I reached the bridge to Tokushima.  Within minutes of turning onto the bridge, I came upon a freakish swirl below me.  It was like somebody was running a vacuum, under water.  Of course, what I ended up seeing were the Naruto Whirlpools.

I planned this route, mainly to see them today.  As much as you could make yourself aware of this phenomenon, it’s still alluring to see it work in person.  The swirling, gazing cyclone is the result of changing tides between the Pacific Ocean and the inland sea of Seto. It appears that I picked the best time to see them, as the tides are at their strongest in the Spring and Summer months.

The locals have long been aware of the whirlpools, and the impact that they could have on local tourism.  Some companies offer boat tours, giving the viewers an up close vantage point of the whirlpools.

In addition to that, there are walkways and parks dedicated to viewing the swirling water. After crossing the bridge, I found the nearest tour company and got a ticket to one of the boat tours.  Call me crazy, but there’s something about meteorological phenomena that tends to clench onto the human mind.

After a short wait,  I boarded onto the next departing boat and glided to get an up close angle.  From the distance, the whirlpools look like a violent thrashing of elements.  It certainly didn’t appear like a place safe to brush up against.  The process of the whirlpools forming takes place over a process of 6 hours. It begins by the Ocean water flowing into the strait, tumbling off the nearby bays.  Depending on the time of day (and season) that you’re here, you can witness whirlpools only a few feet deep to some well over 20 feet.  

I’m glad to say that I witnessed a sizable pool, as the swirling mass of water soon reached the bow of our boat. Despite its violent looks, we were told by the tour staff that the whirlpools are harmless.  The natural occurrence of swirling water is the proverbial paper tiger, one that I can imagine brings in a LOT of paper for these tour companies.  

Regardless, it was cool to get some up close photos of the whirlpools and experience such a phenomena right in front of me. It’s just crazy to think that much of this is instigated by the moon, as we all know it's the driving force behind changing tides.  I don’t know if mother nature extends its ways into space, but whatever is controlling the skies above, it definitely has a magnetic pull over our climate on Earth. 

After taking in the remaining viewing points of the whirlpools, I rode into the city of Tokushima and called it a day.  I’m not sure where I’m going tomorrow, but rest assured, I’ve already seen one gem from this new island.

Thanks and I’ll see you soon!

-Ayden