Day 73

June 12th

A day at the track always refuels my tank of adrenaline.  Maybe it’s the racer in me, but it’s hard not to get jacked up for days after sending a bike through the course.  Everybody has what I call an “adrenaline vice”.  It doesn’t matter the age, race, gender, interests, etc. I believe that there’s an inherent avenue that we all seek to get the heart rate going.  

Mine has always been behind two wheels.  For others, it could be something as simple as knitting… Ok, maybe not that many people lol.  Point is, days like yesterday inject enthusiasm for life and what you’re doing to live it to the fullest.  I made reservations to come back towards the end of the week, so I’ll get one more crack at that track before I see you (and to Osaka for the race).  

As for today, I took a trip down to the city of Kumamoto.  I know that the city is known for its castle (aptly named, Kumamoto Castle) but honestly, I’m more excited to see the nearby Volcano.  Mount Aso is an active volcano that showed signs of life as recently as this year.  I’ve read that the area surrounding the volcano is dozens of kilometers big, with designated areas for tourists to observe.  

Speaking of adrenaline rushes, there is something oddly exciting about unpredictable weather. Growing up on the edge of tornado alley, I learned firsthand how erratic weather could shift the tone.  Amid panic and potential fear, there is a spark of energy produced with that kind of damaging weather.  By no means am I saying that I want lava to fall on my head lol.  My point is, natural wonders like this can’t help but arouse some sort of adrenaline in someone and pique their curiosity to see more.  

Aside from the magma slinger that is Mt. Aso, the region also has a highly reputable Onsen just north of the volcano.  I made reservations to stay there tomorrow night, as I’m expecting Aso to be a full day trip.  The ride to Kumamoto was a straight cruise, with the flowing southern route taking only an hour and a half to complete. 

Japan is such a weird country in how sporadic the altitude can change.  I’d hate to guess how many routes I’ve had on this trip that have started in a place around sea level and finished thousands of feet in elevation.  While the DZed and its somewhat dated engine have held up admirably, routes like today highlight the advantages of a fuel-injected bike.  

Oh, well. You can’t beat the character that this bike has (or the obvious scrapes along with within the frame). Unfortunately, one thing did get the better of the DZed today.  While I was entering the city, my left tire met the business end of some glass in the road.  I’m hypothesizing that there was an accident in this area and I met the residual leftovers of the impact.  To make matters worse, today is a Sunday so there are no shops open.  It looks like Mt. Aso will have to wait for my presence until tomorrow.  

Fortunately, I was able to nurse the bike into town and get to my accommodations for the night.  There’s a nice hostel with free parking (which has been rare to find) in Kumamoto, so the choice was mindless. While I’m temporarily reduced to my own two feet, I decided to hike across town and see Kumamoto Castle. 

Compared to the other castles I’ve visited on this trip, this fortress is a behemoth.  The large, charcoal-shaded plateaus hoist up this ancient castle, all for the city to look upon.  Like many other castles around the country, Kumamoto Castle is home to hundreds of cherry blossom trees, which contrast its shaded hues with vibrant pink beauty.  Remnants of the season can still be seen, as various spots of pink can be found around the area.

According to info at the site, the castle was first constructed in the early 17th century by Kato Kiyomasa, who was a famous Daimyo in the area.  As you know, Daimyos were highly regarded leaders/landowners in feudal times.  Kiyomasa was said to have a strong strategic mind, as his castle was envied by others across the country.  It survived one changeover in ruling clans and provided protection for over 200 years.  

The original castle burned down in 1877, which was a pivotal year for the structure.  Before the castle suffered its first fatal wound, it laid siege to one of the most infamous battles in the countries history.  During a civil war, a group of rebels attacked the castle and all of its troops.  The leader of the rebels (Saigo Takamori) outnumbered the troops at the castle, surrounding them in a seemingly easy victory.  After weeks of clashing, the castle troops won out and forced Takamori’s crew to retreat.  This is one of many examples highlighting the superior architecture and planning that went into Kumamoto Castle. 

In all, Kumamoto Castle has two towers (both with multiple stories stacked up), robust stone walls, moats, and turrets for protection against invaders.  It even has a secret passageway to one of the old lord’s houses.  Make no doubt about it, this place was built to be a military fortress that peaks down at its rivals.  

Despite the castle largely being reconstructed, much of the material used in this process was akin to the original. The biggest change they made was to the inside, with a museum taking place of some old quarters.  Visitors can glean some of the artifacts and notes leftover from yesterday, as the walls currently around it cannot tell the full story.

Upon learning more about this place, you can’t help but garner more respect for it.   If you consider the geography of the region, it’s no wonder why such an emphasis was put on building a sturdy castle.  With proximity to mainland Asia, this region must have been constantly bombarded with domestic and foreign threats, alike.  

To finish my visit to Kumamoto Castle, I scaled the levels of this gargantuan structure and took my best panoramic photos of the city.  Other castles had somewhat of an elevated plane, but none of them compare to this view. The charcoal plateaus allow this castle to float at an elevated plane above the city.  Again, it’s not hard to imagine that this was strategically done.  

It was at this moment that I pondered the concept of self-preservation.  As humans, do we naturally protect ourselves from outside threats- or do irregular actions spur this kind of defensive behavior? There’s an old saying, “Iron sharpens iron”.  It’s commonly used as a sports cliche in the states, but in the context of this castle, you have to wonder if the mantra applies. 

Natives of islands or isolated countries tend to have a raised level of defense, partially because of their location.  Would this behemoth of a castle be standing, if threats from foreign lands weren’t as hotly perceived?  Humans adapt to their surroundings and a place like Kumamoto Castle is a gigantic reminder of doing so (in spades).

After spending the bulk of the day at the castle, I walked back to the hostel and left a message for the nearest shop.  I’m hoping I can stop by first thing in the morning and pick up a new tire/tube combo to get the DZed back on the road.  I have a few patches left that is plan B, but those are temporary fixes, at best.  

As I wound down the day, I made some small talk with a few travelers in the lobby of the hostel.  They’re newlyweds from Austria, seeing Asia for the first time.  Their gleeful auras are sizzling, as everyone around can see the beaming affection that they have for each other.  I’ve seen Euros with over-the-top PDA before, but this couple is just resonating something different.  

I asked them how they met and to my surprise, the answer is far from what I expected. They both served in the military and during their service, they both lost their fathers.  The tragedies bonded them, eventually leading to the discovery of their love for one another.  As it turns out, they had countless things in common. Everything from hobbies to life goals were mostly shared between them.  

Upon hearing their answer, I couldn’t help but harken back to my question at the top of Kumamoto Castle today.  Can humans be naturally spurred into action or does it take a dramatic event to set us in motion?  While debating that thought, they turned their aim towards me and asked if I have a significant other. 

I looked outside the nearby window, pointed in the DZed’s direction, and asked if the bike counted.  Amidst their laughter, they denied the idea. Atleast they admired my well-timed joke.  I didn’t want to hash out what happened between my ex and I, as it’s a story that’s sure to sour the mood for these honeymooners.  I’m not one to drag down someone else’s happiness, so I raised my drink and wished them a long, fruitful marriage.  

After winding down with the newlyweds, I made my way back to the room and set the alarm for 5 am tomorrow.  The nearest shop opens at 6 and I want to get the jump on the supplies I need.  Here’s a toast to love, a new tire, and the ability to see an active volcano tomorrow ;).

Thanks again and I’ll see you soon!

-Ayden